The rhythmic clatter of vehicles driving over old train tracks at Nain, St. Elizabeth, is a constant hum, a soundtrack to the symphony of Jamaican commerce. Here, a vibrant marketplace unfolds every day, a feast for the senses before you even reach your destination. The aroma of the day’s special soup hangs heavy in the air, a spicy, savoury invitation from a nearby stall. Vendors weave between stopped cars, baskets laden with Jamaican top pastries like Toto, Drops and Gizzada, tempting weary travellers. But on this particular day, my nose led me straight to Cedric, the Jerk King of Nain’s train tracks.
Cedric’s jerk stand is a beacon of colour. Flames lick the glistening skin of plump chicken pieces, their surface a fiery tapestry of red, orange, and black. The smoky scent of coal mingles with the sharp tang of Scotch Bonnet peppers, an intoxicating promise of flavour. Cedric, a man with a quiet focus and a warm smile, beams with pride, as I asked him how long he has been at the spot. “Since 2022, mon,” he tells me, “but business good. This way, I put food on the table for my family, you know?”
He’s a mason by day, a culinary magician by night. Six days a week, except Sundays, Cedric transforms this bustling corner into a haven for the late-night hungry. “Most come when everywhere else closed,” he explains. “People be lookin’ for good food, and I make sure they find it here.”
The secret? It’s all in the seasoning, Cedric reveals. “Gotta be different, you know, gotta make them chickens look bright, like sunshine and fire. People see dem pretty colours, they gotta try a taste, right?”
But Cedric’s not one to keep the good vibes to himself. He gestures towards the other vendors, their stalls brimming with culinary treasures. “Try the cow-skin soup, mon, it’s legendary here. And tell Jess I sent you for the best coconut drops in all of St. Elizabeth!”
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This bustling corner at Nain is more than just a stop on the road to Treasure Beach’s famed Jakes and Lashings Resort. It’s a testament to Jamaican spirit, a place where community thrives and deliciousness reigns supreme. So next time you find yourself traversing these tracks, take a moment to savour the sights, sounds, and smells of Nain’s marketplace. And if you see Cedric, with his famous jerk chicken, don’t hesitate – let your nose be your guide.
Location: Nain, St. Elizabeth
What it is similar to: Trying Janga and Bussu at Berrydale, Portland
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