Every now and again I discover somewhere that represents the pureness of Jamaica, and this was undeniably the case while driving through the community of Middleton in the Blue Mountains. This majestic range, spanning across Portland, St. Thomas, and St. Andrew, is a geological marvel. My access point on this particular adventure was from St. Andrew, driving through familiar communities like Papine and Gordon Town.
The ascent into the hills was a sensory shift. The air grew noticeably cooler, carrying the scent of pine. These towering pine trees became constant companions, their sturdy trunks lining the winding roads. Lush vegetation formed a canopy overhead, creating tunnels of green that occasionally parted to reveal glimpses of distant valleys. On both sides of the road, the sweet, unmistakable aroma of ripe mangoes filled the air. This was the heartland of the world-acclaimed Blue Mountain coffee, and the anticipation was almost palatable.
An Unscheduled Stop and a Friendly Face
My initial stop was entirely serendipitous. One of the first things that truly snagged my attention was an out-of-service telephone booth, a relic of simpler times, standing guard in front of a modest shop. This was Mr. Reid’s, a retired police officer, establishment. A pleasant man with a cap perched on his head and a ready smile that revealed a full set of teeth, was quick to strike up a conversation.
I asked him, “how long have you been operating this shop?”
He replied, “Over 14 years. But someone was operating it for me, before then. Because I was working at the station in Irish Town.”
Having worked up an appetite from my previous assignment, I ordered a bun and cheese. Noticing a stove within his shop, I inquired, “do you cook food as well?”
“Yes man!” he affirmed with a grin. “On Friday evening time I have fried chicken.”
As I finished my bun and cheese, my gaze drifted a stone’s throw away to a truly captivating wooden structure. Its inviting design attracted me. “Middleton Coffee Cafe Bar,” I murmured, reading the subtle sign. After bidding Mr. Reid a grateful goodbye, I set off for my next discovery.
Middleton Coffee Cafe Bar
The cafe’s exterior was an immediate embrace of rustic charm. Predominantly constructed from wood, it possessed a warm, golden-brown hue that seemed to glow against the overcast sky. Its roofs, pyramid-shaped and crafted from zinc, had a beautiful, weathered patina.
Quick Facts
Who is it for: Anyone seeking an authentic Blue Mountain experience, coffee lovers, nature enthusiasts, and those looking for a peaceful escape.
What it is NOT: A bustling, fast-paced urban coffee shop or a formal dining establishment.
Tip: Be prepared for strong, traditionally roasted Blue Mountain coffee – you might want to dilute it!
What stands out: The rustic wooden aesthetic and the stunning panoramic views of the Blue Mountains.
What to carry: A light jacket or sweater (it’s cold in the mountains!), your camera for the views, and an appetite for fresh local fare and coffee.
Must try food: The freshly brewed Blue Mountain coffee and a plantain burger.
What is it similar to: A traditional, family-run roadside cafe or a rustic mountain lodge with a focus on local produce and breathtaking scenery.
Contact: 876-289-4238 / 876-344-0385, Instagram: @middleton_cafe_bar
The establishment was adorned with a variety of plants, it felt like stepping into a miniature jungle. Numerous potted plants were artfully placed, while dense foliage, including recognizable coffee plants, formed natural screens, enhancing the tropical ambiance. For seating, rough-hewn wooden benches and chairs were scattered outside, offering inviting spots to simply sit and absorb the surroundings. One prominent wooden bench, with its unique back design of vertical planks, particularly caught my eye. The cafe nestled perfectly by the side of the lightly paved road, its presence feeling utterly organic to the landscape. A small red and black toy truck, a playful burst of color, was parked near one of the cafe structures, a customer donation adding a touch of community spirit.
As I approached, a figure emerged. He was stylishly clad in a predominantly red tracksuit, complete with a hoodie and a red baseball hat. His ensemble was completed by a retro red, black, and white Air Jordan 1. He was engrossed in a phone conversation, clearly trying to finalize an order. “Marva! All now you don’t tell mi the price fi di case ah water,” he exclaimed, his voice carrying a slight impatience.
After a few minutes of back and forth, he finally ended the call, turning to me with a direct gaze. “Wha happen boss?” he greeted.
“I am fascinated by your establishment,” I replied, genuinely intrigued.
He introduced himself as Paul Miller, the proud owner and operator of Middleton Coffee Cafe Bar. With a welcoming gesture, he quickly invited me in. I watched as he sat, pestle and mortar in hand, rhythmically beating parched coffee beans. “Is long time mi doing this enu,” he remarked, the soft thud of the pestle accompanying his words.
“Really, what led you to this place?” I inquired, my curiosity piqued.
“Well, mi leave Trelawny from me ah three to come and join my father, on his coffee farm up here in Middleton,” he explained, a subtle smile playing on his lips.
As our conversation began to brew, so did a complimentary cup of coffee, which Paul insisted I try. I took a cautious sip, the dark liquid coating my tongue with an intense bitterness. “Paul, this is really strong, I am going to have to dilute it,” I confessed, my eyes widening slightly.
He and a farmer friend in the background burst into laughter. Then he revealed that I was not the only person who told him this, a knowing twinkle in his eye. The gentle breeze, carrying the scent of wet leaves and distant pine, began to blow against our skin as we sat in the dining area, delving deeper into his upbringing.
A Legacy of Coffee and Community
As a young child, Paul’s admiration for his father was evident. “I would get up around 4 am in the morning, me and my older sister, and we would help my father on the farm. When we were finished, we went to school.” This rigorous routine had clearly instilled a strong sense of discipline. He recounted a pivotal moment with quiet pride, “I remember in 1981 as a little youth, I got $7 for carrying a box of coffee.” The sum may seem small now, but the memory clearly held significant weight for him.
While sipping our coffee, we rose from the table as he began to show me around his cafe. At its heart, a central bar bustled with quiet energy. Surrounding this focal point, a variety of sturdy wooden tables and chairs were thoughtfully arranged. Many were strategically positioned to offer breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Blue Mountain landscape. The very thought of it — sipping a freshly brewed coffee while gazing out at the misty peaks and lush valleys — felt like an idyllic escape. The bar itself was well-equipped, catering to various cravings with snacks, refreshing beers, and mixed liquors. For a lighter bite, muffins and a variety of wraps were available, perfect for a casual meal amidst the serene mountain backdrop. It was clear that this wooden cafe provided a cozy and inviting atmosphere where the beauty of the Blue Mountains was always just beyond reach.
The more we spoke, the deeper our conversation delved, with Paul revealing the challenges facing the coffee trade. “We have one of the best coffee in the world and fewer farmers are harvesting it because they can’t make a profit.”
Feeling neglected and underrepresented, Paul has become a passionate spokesperson for many of these farmers. “It’s a shame when you see what they buy it from us for and then what they sell the finished product for.” He spoke with deep conviction about the trade, a livelihood he has known his entire life.
Our tour continued to a lower deck, an ingenious space built around a living tree. This area was clearly designed for pure relaxation, offering an even more expansive and breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains. Paul expressed his hopes for future expansion, mindful of his current limitations. “I want to build a pizza place, but I have to see the money first,” he chuckled, a touch of pragmatic humor in his voice.
By the time I reached back to the entrance, the clock signaled it was time to make my way back to Kingston. Leaving Middleton Coffee Cafe Bar, I carried not just the lingering taste of potent Blue Mountain coffee, but a profound appreciation for Paul’s dedication, the raw beauty of the mountains, and the spirit of Jamaican entrepreneurship. My quest for authentic experiences had once again been richly rewarded.
How long does it take to get to Middleton Coffee Bar, from these central points:
- Kingston (Norman Manley International airport): 1 hr, 10 mins.
- Montego Bay (Sangsters International Airport): 3 hrs, 30 mins.
- Ocho Rios: 2 hrs, 6 mins.
- Negril: 4 hrs, 39 mins.
Watch the latest Kareem’s Quest Adventure videos on YouTube, click the link below
Create your own adventure
Craving your own Jamaican escape? Head over to our TOUR PAGE to connect with Kareem’s Quest! We can help you plan your itinerary, find the perfect hotels and adventures, and ensure you experience the authentic side of Jamaica. Get ready to fall in love with Jamaica, mon!
Follow Kareem’s Quest
Useful Information about Jamaica
Click to check Jamaica’s Foreign Exchange Rate.
What is the weather like in Jamaica
The climate in Jamaica is very warm, with an annual average of 32 degrees/ 89.6°F. It is usually warm to hot all year round.
What is the time zone in Jamaica
Eastern Standard Time (GMT-5)
Immigration/ Custom Form
Every visitor is required to fill out a C5 form before entering Jamaica
